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If you are bottle feeding kittens, FuRR recommends that you take them to your vet at the earliest possible opportunity. Your vet can determine their current health and any special needs they might have.
You may have rescued the kittens during hours when a vet is not available. In that case, don't wait for the vet visit to begin caring for the kittens. Time is critical. The following guidelines should be started immediately.
- If possible find the mother cat. She will provide the best 24 hour care. If the mother is not available, do you know of someone who has a nursing mom cat? Perhaps she will accept the new kittens.
- First and most importantly, keep them WARM! Even in the summer, young kittens can become chilled at night, if they've gotten wet or have been in a breezy shade area. Kittens under 4 weeks cannot maintain body temp on their own and cannot digest anything unless and until they are brought to their normal body temp first. Ladies, in a pinch when there is no heat source, truly the best place is to put them is in the crevice of your bra, no kidding! Your body heat will warm them. Sometimes these youngsters are found in really sad shape. Before resorting to giving them a bath - warmth, feeding and defecation are most important! Many kittens have died simply because someone bathed them first; that should come later, if at all. A cardboard box with soft blankets and a heating pad set on LOW is ideal, but overheating is not good either. Leave a little space so they can crawl off if they get too warm. If it's too hot for you, it's too hot for them.
- Many people don't know that kittens under 4 weeks are not able to 'potty' on their own or that Momma cat has to stimulate them. Kittens do not begin to 'go' on their own, until around the age of 4 weeks. Best is to hold them in your hand, belly up and use a dry paper towel (remember, mom's tongue is very rough) to wipe their bottom vigorously. They should spontaneously 'go'. Continue wiping until they stop; discard paper towel. They will squirm and mew; this is normal. They should be stimulated either before or after every feeding. Failure to do this may result in the kittens becoming septic and dying. Kittens will begin using a small, 'trainer litter box' around 4 weeks of age.
- Feeding: contrary to popular belief, cats and kittens should NOT have cow's milk. It may cause diarrhea, gas and indigestion. Many cats are lactose intolerant! Bottle babies should be given kitten formula which is made for them and includes all nutrients which a nursing kitten needs. "KMR" or "Just Born" is best. Do not use puppy formula; it does not contain enough calories or taurine, which kittens need. Do not use human canned milk, creamer or any other milk type products. In a pinch, you may dilute clear Kayro Syrup (corn syrup) with warm water and give orally. This will provide energy and hydration without causing digestive problems for one or two feedings only, until formula can be obtained. Kitten formula comes in liquid (already mixed) and powder form. FuRR highly recommends KMR powder - which can be mixed as needed without the rest spoiling before it's used. For newborns, there is a product which comes in a "juice box" carton; "Just Born" is excellent for brand new babies, as it has colostrum just like mom's first milk.
- Feeding these orphans in the proper position is critical. They nurse on momma cat while lying on their tummies. They must be bottle fed the same way to prevent liquid from going into their lungs. If liquid gets into their lungs it can cause pneumonia or drowning. Do Not hold them on their back when feeding. Easiest is to place them on a towel on a waist level surface, such as a kitchen counter top, then introduce the bottle while holding them firmly, with their feet & tummy on the counter. Don't turn your back; they may easily crawl & fall off!
- A 2 oz bottle with a rubber nipple is ideal, which can be found at most pet stores. Use a sharp scissors to cut an "X" in the tip on the rubber nipple - do not cut a hole across the top, as it is way too large and can choke the kittens with too fast flow, whereas with an "X" it releases liquid when it's compressed by sucking. You may need to gently squeeze the bottle to assist them getting the formula. Keep the end of the bottle tipped up to prevent them getting any air bubbles. Bottles are stiff; it's sometimes difficult for them to take to it, especially if they've had time to nurse on their mom. They don't always take to a bottle immediately. Sometimes they need to get a little hungrier. Don't give up; just try again in 30 mins or so. In a pinch, a clean eye dropper or clean syringe without the needle can be used until a 2 oz. pet bottle is obtained.
- The biggest mistake is overfeeding. Once they take to the bottle, they are so eager and always seem to want more. Truly, it's better to slightly underfeed than overfeed. If diarrhea becomes apparent, thin the mixture of formula by adding more water to it. Too rich of a mix causes loose stools. When their tummy feels firm (not tight) they've had enough. Hydration can easily be checked by pinching the skin behind their neck where mom cat picks them up. If it falls back into place right away, they're fine. If it stays puckered or falls slowly, then they're dehydrated and need fluids asap.
- The feeding frequency depends on the age of kittens when rescued. Newborns one week or less should be fed every two hours, around the clock, 24/7 - then just ad one hour per week of age thereafter. For example, two week old kittens should be fed every 4 hrs. three week olds should be fed every 5 hrs., and so on. Gentle weaning, offering moistened solid cat food can begin around 4-5 weeks of age.
- AGE GUIDELINE:
Unbilical still attached: newborn - 3 days
No umbilical, ear flaps up: 4 - 7 days
Wobbly, belly drags when crawling: 8-10 days
Eyes open: 10-14 days
Walks without belly touching: 15-21 days (3 weeks)
Can feel teeth nubs when put finger in mouth, starts to toddle well: 3 weeks
Starts to use litter box, take interest in solid food, starts to run: 4 weeks
- Kittens should weigh approx. 2 lbs at the age of 8-9 weeks of age, if healthy - however, bottle/hand raised kittens tend to remain smaller than their naturally raised counterparts until they reach adolescence age. This is normal.
- Kittens can be spayed/neutered (if healthy), at 2 lbs weight and 8 weeks of age for males, 2 lbs & 12 weeks of age for females.
- If kittens remain weak, very thin, have loss of appetite, severe diarrhea and/or not eating for more than 36 hrs, it is imperative they be taken to a licensed veterinarian as soon as possible, as these are life threatening issues.
- It is highly recommended that kittens see a licensed veterinarian for routine de-worming, check-up and initial vaccinations before the age of 8 weeks.
Bottle feeding orphans can be very rewarding because they would otherwise have died, had you not rescued them. Once they start to play and bounce around, they'll truly make you smile. Knowing that you saved their lives is the ultimate achievement! Once your bottle babies are weaned and growing, PLEASE do the right by them to avoid more unwanted kittens - have them spayed & neutered BEFORE you find them a permanent home. That's the ONLY WAY you'll know they will not reproduce & add to the overpopulation problem (and the killing in shelters!).
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